What is Hanoi Grilled Fish?

GM Tran

February 2, 2024

Hanoi Grilled Fish, locally known as Cha Ca La Vong, is a signature dish from Hanoi, Vietnam. It consists of freshwater hemibagrus fish that is sliced thinly and marinated in a mixture of fish sauce, black pepper, turmeric, and other spices. The fish is then grilled on a charcoal stove right at the dining table and served with rice noodles, herbs, peanuts, and a special dipping sauce.

1. What is Hanoi Grilled Fish

Hanoi Grilled Fish, locally known as Cha Ca La Vong, is a signature dish from Hanoi, Vietnam. It consists of freshwater hemibagrus fish that is sliced thinly and marinated in a mixture of fish sauce, black pepper, turmeric, and other spices. The fish is then grilled on a charcoal stove right at the dining table and served with rice noodles, herbs, peanuts, and a special dipping sauce.

Cha Ca La Vong was created in the late 1800s by the Doan family, who opened a small restaurant in Cha Ca Street to sell this dish. It quickly became popular among locals as a tasty and unique way to enjoy fresh fish. As word spread over the decades, Cha Ca La Vong has cemented its status as one of Vietnam's most iconic culinary exports.

The tranditional Hanoi Grilled Fish
The tranditional Hanoi Grilled Fish (Source: Collected)

2. Overview of Hanoi Grilled Fish

2.1 History

As the story goes, Cha Ca La Vong was invented by Mrs. Doan in the late 19th century. Her family opened a small restaurant in Cha Ca Street, located in Hanoi's Old Quarter, to serve this grilled fish dish. It became a meeting spot for locals during resistance efforts against French colonial rule. Over time, the tasty dish attracted visitors from around Vietnam. Today, Cha Ca La Vong is famous not just in Hanoi but also internationally among food lovers.

14 Cha Ca Street
14 Cha Ca Street - Where Cha Ca La Vong was born (Source: Vnexpress)

2.2 Preparation

The key to authentic Cha Ca La Vong lies in the fish and the marinade. The fish used is freshwater hemibagrus, prized for its tender flesh and minimal bones. It is thinly sliced, then marinated in a mixture of turmeric powder, shrimp paste, sugar, rice vinegar, salt, and black pepper. The complex marinade infuses the fish with lots of flavor. Other white-fleshed fish like snakehead or catfish are also sometimes used.

Hemibagrus fish
Hemibagrus fish (Source: Collected)

2.3 Cooking Method

The marinated fish is grilled on a charcoal stove right at the diner's table. A waiter arranges the fish slices neatly on a bamboo basket and places it over the smoking charcoal. The fish is grilled for just 2-3 minutes until slightly browned and cooked through. Diners often grill the fish themselves at their table. The smoky, aromatic smells are part of the sensory cha ca dining experience.

Hanoi Grilled Fish
You will cook it by yourself with Cha Ca La Vong (Source: Collected)

3. Biography of Hanoi Grilled Fish

As mentioned earlier, Cha Ca La Vong was created in late 19th century Hanoi by Mrs. Doan, matriarch of the Doan family. They lived on Cha Ca Street and decided to open a small restaurant serving this signature grilled fish recipe.

At the time, Vietnam was under French colonial rule. The restaurant became a meeting spot for locals who wanted to resist French occupation. It also attracted Vietnamese diners from beyond Hanoi who enjoyed the tasty, reasonably priced fish dish.

Over the 20th century, word gradually spread about Cha Ca La Vong's unique flavors and dining experience. Food critics lauded it as one of Vietnam's most iconic dishes. The restaurant has also been featured in numerous lists like "The Bucket List 1000 Food Experiences." Today, Cha Ca La Vong's reputation makes it a must-try for visitors to Hanoi.

The Doan family still runs the Cha Ca La Vong restaurant, now with several branches across Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Their heritage dish retains its tasty original flavours while drawing diners from all over the world.

3.1 The Doan Family

The Doan family invented Cha Ca La Vong in the late 1800s and popularised it from their Cha Ca Street restaurant. They still operate the restaurant today across a few branches, staying true to the original recipe and cooking process that made it iconic. The current matriarch is Mrs. Ngo Thi Tinh, a descendant in the family's fourth generation.

The Doan Family
The Doan Family (Source: Collected)

4. Where is Hanoi Grilled Fish

Cha Ca La Vong and Hanoi Grilled Fish is synonymous with the founding restaurant located at 14 Cha Ca Street in Hanoi. This busy tourist area in Hanoi's Old Quarter has a few other rival cha ca joints too. But the Cha Ca La Vong restaurant run by the Doan family is the original place for enjoying the signature grilled fish dish.

These are 2 restaurants has a top rated in Hanoi:

So for tourists looking to sample authentic Cha Ca La Vong, the 14 Cha Ca Street branch is historic and iconic. The other restaurants in Hanoi also serve tasty versions of the grilled fish dish in similar dining ambience.

Best hanoi grilled fish in hanoi at VIET Restaurant Hanoi
The premium Hanoi Grilled Fish at VIET Restaurant Hanoi (Source: vietrestauranthanoi.com)

5. How to Eat Hanoi Grilled Fish

Cha Ca La Vong is usually served as part of a multicourse meal:

Appetiser: Crispy shrimp crackers and pickled vegetables are served first to stimulate the palate.

Main Dish: The star is the grilled fish, served steaming hot right off the charcoal grill. It is accompanied by a bowl of rice noodles, assorted herbs, roasted peanuts, and dipping sauce. Common herbs used are mint, basil, perilla, dill, etc.

Eating Method: Place some noodles into your bowl, top it with a few pieces of grilled fish, add some herbs and peanuts, and drizzle over the dipping sauce. Mix everything together well and enjoy! The complex interplay of flavours and textures is heavenly.

Sides: Some restaurants may include additional vegetable sides like a salad or sauteed morning glory.

Drinks: Vietnamese rice wine is great with Cha Ca La Vong. Draught beer like Hanoi beer is another fine pairing.

Part of what makes eating Cha Ca La Vong special is grilling the fish yourself right at your table over smoking charcoal. The waiter brings a bamboo basket containing the marinated fish and places it over the mini grill on your table. After 2-3 minutes, slide the fish off carefully and mix with the noodles and herbs.

Hanoi Girlled Fish
Hanoi Grilled Fish (Source: Collected)

6. Tips for Enjoying Hanoi Grilled Fish

Here are some handy pro tips for getting the most of your Cha Ca La Vong experience:

  • Go to the original restaurant on 14 Cha Ca Street or VIET Restaurant Hanoi 16 Hang Da Street for the authentic heritage ambience
  • If eating the dish elsewhere abroad, check if they import banana leaves for grilling. It lends a unique aroma.
  • Mix all the elements like noodles, herbs, peanuts together with the fish rather than eating separately.
  • Adjust the portion of fish, herbs and rice noodles depending on your preference
  • Drink some Vietnamese rice wine before or during your meal to enhance the flavors
  • The dish is quite healthy as it uses lean fish instead of red meat. But the dipping sauce adds sodium.
  • Grilling the fish yourself at the table straight over charcoal enhances the aroma
  • Observe how much charring locals allow on the fish before removing from grill

As long as you get tender hemibagrus fish and use a balanced marinade, you can recreate tasty Hanoi grilled fish at home too. Just mix the noodles, herbs and spices deftly like the Vietnamese.

Top 1 vietnamese restaurant in Hanoi
Top 1 vietnamese restaurant in Hanoi (Source: vietrestauranthanoi.com)

7. FAQs

7.1 What types of fish is used in Cha Ca La Vong?

The signature fish used is freshwater hemibagrus (a type of catfish). Snakehead fish and mudfish are popular alternatives. Some restaurants may use premium Anh Vu fish from northern Vietnam. The key is using a tender, white-fleshed fish.

7.2 Is Cha Ca La Vong spicy?

No, Cha Ca La Vong gets only mild spiciness from the black pepper and chili in the dipping sauce. The marinade flavors are derived more from turmeric, shrimp paste and fish sauce. So you can adjust spice levels as per your preference.

7.3 Where can I learn to cook Cha Ca La Vong?

Many cooking schools in Hanoi offer classes teaching how to cook Vietnamese dishes including Cha Ca La Vong. You will learn to prepare the marinade paste, grill the fish properly and assemble the noodles and herbs. Some restaurants may also conduct private cooking demos.

7.4 Does the fish need thorough cooking to be safe?

The Vietnamese prefer their freshwater fish just lightly grilled for 2-3 minutes only. The fish gets lightly charred on the outside while remaining moist inside. For food safety, using very fresh fish is key, besides checking properly if the insides are cooked through.

7.5 Can I grill the fish at home instead of on charcoal?

Yes, you can cook cha ca in a grill pan or skillet at home after marinating the fish. Place under a hot broiler for a minute at the end to recreate some smoky charcoal aroma. But nothing beats the traditional tableside charcoal grilling experience.

7.6 Which part of Vietnam is Cha Ca La Vong from?

Cha Ca La Vong originated in Hanoi, located in northern Vietnam. The original and most iconic restaurant is at 14 Cha Ca Street in Hanoi's Old Quarter district near Hoan Kiem lake. This historic food street is a top attraction for tourists.

Cha Ca La Vong originated in Hanoi
Cha Ca La Vong originated in Hanoi (Source: Collected)

Over 130 years since its invention, Cha Ca La Vong has become one of Vietnam's quintessential dishes, intriguing diners with its complex mix of flavors, textures and aromas. Much credit goes to Hanoi's Cha Ca Street and the pioneering Doan family behind popularizing this classic turmeric and dill fish recipe. While various versions now exist globally, grilled over smoking hot charcoal remains the traditional and tastiest way to enjoy this iconic delicacy.

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